Exfoliation Reviewed - Part 2

This is the second part of Exfoliation Reviewed

Different exfoliants
Chemical exfoliants
Chemical exfoliants dissolve the natural buildup of dead skin cells, sebum, and sweat. As such, chemical exfoliants need to be used carefully and with caution. Too much can burn the skin. Chemical exfoliants are either alpha hydroxy acids, commonly referred to as AHAs, or beta hydroxy acids, known as BHAs. Both kinds are frequently used in the same product.

The most commonly used chemical exfoliants are:

• Glycolic acid, an AHA, made from sugar.

• Phenol, used only by physicians and paramedical technicians in chemical peels.

• Salicylic acid, a BHA, made from aspirin. Salicylic acid is the only exfoliant that helps kill germs as it clears your skin.

• Lactic acid, made from milk.

Apply a thin layer of a chemical exfoliant to a clean face and neck, avoiding the eye area. Simply apply and let sit for a couple of minutes. You don’t need to rub the product into your skin, as the chemicals do all the work.

Enzymes as exfoliants
The pulp of certain fruits contains enzymes that actually can digest the dead skin  cell buildup on the skin. Enzymes are chemicals that help digest foods and other  substances. Your stomach secretes enzymes to digest food. The fruit enzymes have been used for many thousands of years as beauty treatments to “digest” dead skin cells. Papaya and pineapple are often used for exfoliation. Papaya contains the enzyme papain and pineapple contains bromelain. Pumpkin is another great choice for enzyme exfoliants. These work on the surface of the skin, and are great for skin with little bumps. You can purchase papaya or pineapple fresh from the grocery store, mash some up, and apply directly to clean facial or body skin. It smells great, but can be a bit messy. Leave the pulp-mask on for 10 to 20 minutes, then rinse off. If you face starts to feel hot, rinse it off immediately. 

Enzyme exfoliants can usually be found at health food stores, and at some boutique skin care shops. You may have a more difficult time finding packaged exfoliants at a drugstore, grocery store, or discount store.
Apply enzyme exfoliant in a thin layer to cleansed skin and neck, avoiding the eye area. Don’t rub it in, just let it sit on the skin. Keep on your skin for 10 to 20 minutes, or as directed. Rinse off with water, then tone and moisturize as you would  normally.

Exfoliant Scrubs
Scrubs feel grainy. Exfoliating scrubs are made with grainy substances that act to mas- sage away the dead skin cell matter. Scrubs made with organic matter contain grainy substances such as ground nutshells, clay, cornmeal, oatmeal, or rice powder. Man- made grainy materials include polyurethane or silicone beads. Some forms of organic scrubs aren’t very good for your skin. Ground-up nutshells can be too rough and abrasive. They create microlacerations on the skin, which wounds the skin and can cause inflammation from microlacerations. Microlacerations take time to heal and leave the skin red and inflamed, and unfortunately, wounded skin is susceptible to infection. Conversely, polyurethane or silicone beads are smooth, and they roll in and out of the pores very gently. This is also true for organic scrubs such as finely ground cornmeal. 

Use a small amount of scrub and apply it to your neck and face. Using small circular movements, rub gently on all areas of your face except the eye area. Be sure to include the sides of your nose, chin, forehead, and jaw line. Rinse well to remove all traces of the beads. Then tone and moisturize.  

Mechanical Exfoliants
Although it’s possible for you to use mechanical exfoliant machines at home, I don’t recommend it. These machines remove dead skin cells, but they’re tricky to use. It’s easy to use too much pressure or to use for too long a period of time in one area.
Both of these errors result in inflammation, microlacerations, redness, and even pain.
Examples of mechanical exfoliants are a hand-held microdermabrasion machine, rotating brush, or an ultrasound device. Using these machines correctly is difficult, and you could make a mistake that you’ll regret. This is nod recommend for home use, these types of treatments are best left to professional skin care technicians.

Combination Exfoliants
You’ll find exfoliant products in the stores that combine enzymes and scrubs, or chemicals and scrubs. They’re fine to use if they don’t irritate your skin and instead leave it looking clear and refined. Some are called gommages; others are lotions and creams.

Go To Exfoliation Reviewed - Part 3 

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